Damaged Natural Nails? Why that may be

Since starting my new career in nail technology I can not begin to tell you how many times I have been told and heard how much damage peoples nails due to acrylic, so much to the point that it is a common thing I hear about these days. People will ask me what I am in school for and  I will say I am studying to become a nail tech only to receive rebuttals like: Oh, I don't get my nails done no more because they jack up my nails". Only for me to think to myself but not say "Well I never offered to do your nails in the first place now did I " LOL.. but for real.

In my last article 5 Misconceptions of Nail Care I like 5 common myths that the public love to believe about nails. Please check it out if you haven't already. Artificial nails ARE NOT BAD they ARE NOT the sole cause nor are the only cause of nails being damaged. What we have to keep in mind is that we are putting chemicals YES chemicals onto our nails. Monomer, Polymer, Hard Gel and Soft gel are INDEED chemicals. In order to prevent damage to the nail plate proper prepping,, applying, maintaining and the MOST important removing needs to take place. This took time for me to realize too. Of course since being in school I understand and see that now.

📷 "Acrylic powder is actually polymerized monomer. (Polymerization happens when single molecules link together into chains of molecules.) Manufacturers use a combination of different monomers, which together create a polymer, to create the powder. Often, it’s a combination of ethyl methacrylate (EMA) and methyl methacrylate (MMA). That may confuse some techs, but here’s an interesting bit of information: MMA is only prohibited in its liquid monomer form. In a polymer form (Poly-MMA or PMMA), it is completely safe. The EMA and MMA are poured into a great container that spins. As it spins, the molecules bond to each other and form perfectly round, hardened droplets: acrylic powder. Manufacturers can create different-sized droplets, such as a fine or medium powder, by changing how fast or slow the machine spins and by adding other ingredients into the formula."  

"As soon as the acrylic liquid touches the acrylic powder, the catalyst in the liquid activates the initiator and a chemical reaction begins the bonding and hardening process used to create acrylic enhancements. When the liquid touches the acrylic powder, it doesn’t “melt” the powder. Instead, the liquid, which has adhesion properties, bonds all the little “droplets,” or pieces of powder, together to create the nail. Each powder particle of the polymerized monomer is coated with an activator.

Now that we have a scientific understanding of the chemistry of the products involved in acrylic application Now lets inform you of what is truly causing your nails to become damaged.

3 Common reasons for damaged natural nails 

• Improper Prepping: When the nails is prepared for acrylic application improperly. This takes place when the salon puts the electric file or an extremely coarse Emory board on the natural nail to remove the shine off of the nail plate. All that is needed is a natural needs in this prepping step is a regular file or even a nail buffer to gently scrape across the nail plate causing the nail to look ashy.

• Improper Removal of Acrylic: This is most common and most damaging to the nail plate over time. When ripping or biting off the acrylic (which is something that I always did) the layers of the nail plate are pulled off. Use the electric file or a coarse hand file to file off some of the thick acrylic then the nails are soaked in 100% acetone. Then use a wooden stick to gently slide off the softened nail tip and acrylic. Repeat the soaking and gently scrape off of acrylic until the natural nail is seen. Soaking off the nail in 100% acetone is the proper way to remove acrylic. It may take a while BUT it is worth it in the long run. By laying a towel over the hands as the nails are soaking can speed up the process a bit.

• Improper filing on the natural nail plate: YES! There is a proper way to file natural nails. Filing with a medium 180 grit file to shorten and shape natural nails. You can also use a 240 grit file on natural nails. The lower the grit the coarse it is and the higher the grit the finer it is. Also when shaping the nail DO NOT go back and forth on the free edge. go left to middle in one direction and right to middle in one direction. The back and forth motion shreds the free edge and causes it to become brittle.

Side Note For Soaking of Acrylic tips: When you soak off acrylic your nail WILL be a little soft,and that is because the nail has been covered for months at a time. I like to recommend to people that you allow your nails to breath for a week  before applying a new set on. Just apply nail hardener polish to the nails for that week your nails will strengthen.Making small changes in your nail care routine, practice and regimes care make all the difference in the health of your natural nails.

Also note that because these products that we place on our nails are chemicals some people may have adverse effects and have allergic reactions to these products and can cause damage to the nails. I hope this information will help you in understanding nail care a little bit more and prompt you to ask questions and identify improper nail care in chop shop nails salons and call them out on their BS.

Until next time Have a Blingtastic Day !